Here are two more of the tea-derived perfumes from the Rare Tea Collection by J. Malone*:
Jade Leaf Tea – Sencha tea with sesame, pomelo and frankincense
Sencha tea has very “cool” flavors, so pomelo, which has compounds that hit the cool/cold receptors makes sense in this blend. Frankincense has a mixture of compounds: some activate both the cool and cold receptors (for example α- and β-pinene, limonene, and β-phellandrene) and at least one, incense acetate, activates TRPV3, the warm receptor. At the same time, almost all the compounds in sesame activate the warm and hot receptors. My guess is that the initial experience of this perfume will be more green-tea-like, but that top note will quickly dissipate to leave you with a warmer aroma, more reminiscent of a church or temple.
Frankincense, from Wikipedia.
Oolong Tea – Oolong, bitter cocoa, tobacco and tonka bean
This combination surprises me. My guess is that the perfumers must be using a dark oolong such as Da Hong Pao from the Wu Yi mountains. This tea is highly oxidized for an oolong, and has a chemical profile much more like a black tea. Da Hong Pao has a roasty sweet floral aroma, which is associated with activation of the warm and hot receptors, unlike other oolongs, which activate primarily the warm receptors. Cocoa and tobacco also activate the warm and hot receptors, the hot receptors more strongly than the warm. Tonka bean activates primarily the warm receptors. My guess is that the aroma of the oolong complements these warm/hot aroma palette, but because the aromas of the cocoa, and particularly of tobacco and tonic bean are far from delicate, the oolong will be unrecognizable as such.
Tomorrow we will look at the last two perfumes in this collection, and, as I have done above, discuss what I think is the rationale for the choices of ingredients. So more to come!
* http://worldteanews.com/profiles-new-products/tea-perfume-for-the-true-enthusiast?NL=WTM-001&Issue=WTM-001_20160412_WTM-001_244&sfvc4enews=42&cl=article_4_b
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